Kent Castles Cycle Ride

I haven't explored East Surrey and West Kent much. I planned this ride to make use of the Redhill-Tonbridge railway line to enable a one way trip, aided by strong easterly wind. I followed an established cycle route from Tonbridge to Penshurst Place, then improvised a continuation passing Chiddingstone Castle and Hever Castle, then cross-country back to my starting point at Redhill. Hever was the childhood home of Anne Boleyn. Ironically, both it and Penshurst were both later given to her successor but one, Anne of Cleeves.

I could have reached the start at Redhill by train, but for simplicity I put the bike in the back of the car and drove to Redhill Gloucester Road long term car park (£6 for the day). There is also a car park at the station, but it's quite small (note, before 9am it is for season ticket holders only). It was an easy train journey to Tonbridge, with one bike carriage on the Southern train.

The map of my ride is here.

Arrived in Tonbridge, I made my way to Tonbridge Castle, of which some walls and an impressive gatehouse remain. Then I backtracked slightly to join the official cycle route to Penshurst Place. The route is designated and signed as Regional Route 12 of the National Cycle Network, although in truth it is an isolated fragment, with no connection to the wider network. (It should not be confused with NCN 12 proper, which runs from London to Spalding.) Finding the start wasn't easy, but once you have found it, it is well signed. It heads west through Haysden Country Park, with separate tracks for cyclists and pedestrians, then follows the upper reaches of the Medway up the Eden Valley (why it's called the Eden Valley, not the Medway Valley I know not), and finally uses a concrete track which rises to Well Place Farm, giving good views over the Weald. Just beyond the farm, there is a good view of Penshurst Place, surrounded by its impressive brick walls.

I stopped for a snack at the Porcupine Pantry, the cafe in the visitors' car park (the porcupine was part of the crest of the Sidney family, who latterly owned the estate). I lingered for a while in the village to admire the timbered buildings and church. This marked the end of the signed route. I pressed on West on a good bridleway passing Wat Stock to Chiddingstone, an attractive hamlet in the care of the National Trust, with more jettied buildings. Here, a gate gives access for pedestrians and cyclists to the grounds Chiddingstone Castle (there is an honesty box for donations, and cyclists must walk): even though the display of daffodils was rather past its best they still made an excellent foreground for the 'Castle', an 1830's conceit. The castle was latterly owned by one Denys Eyre Bower to house his extensive collections. He was rumoured to think himself a reincarnation of Bonnie Prince Charlie, and "a segment of the heart, hair, blood and garter ribbon of James II" are included amongst the exhibits.

Next up was Hever, a mile or so further on via bridleway and country lanes. (Some online sources claim it is possible to cycle along the footpath to Hever Church: I found a notice forbidding cycling and stuck to the lanes: fair enough, it is a footpath.) It was not possible to get views of the castle itself without paying the entrance fee. Hever ended my castle crawl, and from here I followed roads westwards to Edenbridge and on across country. This was pleasant enough, but it is difficult to find quiet country lanes in this neck of the woods. The B- and A- roads around Blindley Heath were particularly busy: I attempted to avoid them by pushing across the Heath itself: not a good idea, it was a quagmire.

The village of Outwood with its windmill was more peaceful, and it was a relief to reach the traffic-free NCN21 which I took back to Redhill. The NCN21 has been very well surfaced and, for a route so close to the Reigate-Gatwick conurbation, is surprisingly rural south of Redhill.

The first half of the ride, from Tonbridge to Hever was delightful, especially on such a lovely day with all the bluebells in flower. If you confined the ride to just this (perhaps ending at Edenbridge station), you would have time to visit the castles (but make sure you have your credit card with you to pay all the entrance fees). The second half, from Edenbridge has less to commend it: maybe I will try and find a more bucolic alternative.