Thames Estuary: Cliffe to Gravesend

[For a ride along the Thames to the West, between Gravesend and Dartford, see this blog.]
[For a ride along the Thames to the East, between Cliffe and All Hallows, see this blog.]
[For a ride along the Thames and Swale to the South-East, between Gillingham and Graveney see this blog]


A short while ago, I cycled East around the Hoo Peninsula shore of the Thames Estuary from Cliffe to All Hallows. I have also done Gravesend to Dartford. This leaves a gap between Cliffe and Gravesend, so today, I returned to Cliffe and followed the estuary shore West to Gravesend, and completed the circuit by returning along NCN1 and NCN 179.  Here is a map of my track. The usual health warnings apply: the paths are quite rough, and will probably be muddy after wet weather, when they are best left alone. In places around Cliffe Fort the paths are quite narrow and overgrown and there were some kissing gates requiring upending your bike. And one should always give priority to walkers (though I saw scarcely anyone else today).



I parked once more in the Cliffe village car park. I was unsure whether the coastal path (known as the Saxon Shore Way) was passable at Cliffe Fort, since various internet sources say it has been closed due to path erosion. Hence I decided to take the path to the South. I called in again for a brunch at the cafe at Buckland Lake (a private fishing lake, but the cafe is open to the public). I then headed West using the path through the Brett Aggregates workings to emerge on the shoreside embankment.

Manor Farm in Cliffe

Buckland Lakes cafe is a good place for a food stop

The path passes through the Brett Aggregates site, which has its own railway siding

Don't stray from the path!

The Thames embankment: Environment Agency giant lawn mower in operation

From here I decided to make an excursion to see Cliffe Fort and check out the state of the path. Parts of the path approaching the Fort were in a rather precarious state due to erosion, but these were passable with care, and I reached the slipway in which lie the remains of the Brennan Torpedo Launch Rails. Beyond here I was gratified to find that the path has been reinstated so it possible once again to make a complete circuit.

Path out to Cliffe Fort

Looking across the water to Cliffe Fort

The path is being undermined in places, passable with care

 I believe that here they both extract sand, gravel etc, but also process marine dredgings delivered by dredging ships to this jetty at Cliffe Fort.

Cliffe Fort, built c1860. Its companion, Coalhouse Fort, is visible on the opposite bank of the Thames, the two guarding the entrance to the Thames

Steps must be negotiated across the torpedo slipway

The Brennan Torpedo launch rails. This torpedo was an early guided weapon, being steered onto its target ship by wires reeling out behind providing a link to the shore-based command post. It ws never used in anger and ceased operation before WW1.

The path past Cliffe Fort had been eroded away, but has been reinstated

Mounds of stuff, without which no journey along the Thames Estuary is complete

I reached the mouth of Cliffe Creek

Having reached the mouth of Cliffe Creek, I retraced my tracks to the main embankment heading West alongside the Thames. This provided the now-familiar experience: bumpy cycling, rewarded by great views along and across the river. Coalhouse Fort was visible opposite its twin, Cliffe Fort, providing a defensive line across the river. I passed Shornmead Fort, and the cranes at the busy port of Tilbury hove into view upstream.

Back to the embankment (now shorn by the EA grass cutter)

There is constant shipping activity along the Thames

Approaching Shornemead Fort

Looking back along the embankment

Jetties on the outskirts of Gravesend

Steps up to the path along the flood wall

Riverside refreshments at the Ship and Lobster pub

Having reached the outskirts of Gravesend, with its numerous jetties and wharves, I stopped for much needed refreshment at the Ship and Lobster pub by the riverside, rather unprepossessing from the outside, but with friendly service. I then returned 'inland' along NCN1, which follows a quiet road then track, sandwiched between the railway and the Milton rifle range. I called in yet again at the Buckland Lake cafe for a cuppa.

Marine junk yard

NCN1 heading back East

NCN1 track

More NCN1

I branched off on the NCN 179 which returns on quiet roads to Cliffe

Tea and cake at Buckland Lakes cafe

I now decided to confirm that the path was fully reinstated around Cliffe Fort by taking the path which approaches the Fort from the East, via the RSPB Cliffe Pools reserve. I then returned to the car park in Cliffe to complete an interesting and satisfying day.

The path through the RSPB Cliffe Pools reserve (there is also a vehicle track beside it)

The narrow path alongside Cliffe Creek

At one point, for a short stretch,  the path is pinched between a wall and thorny bushes, but after that its a clear run to the mouth of Cliff Creek which I reached from the other direction earlier on.

Path back through the RSPB Reserve

Cliffe Pools